Upholstery Techniques
Step 1: The first step no matter what technique is being used is Talking Down and Inspecting The Frame
Talking Down is done so that the frame can be inspected so that the technique which will be used to re-upholster the furniture can be determined.
Process 2:
Every piece of upholstered furniture will have webbing applied to create a strong seat and firm base, which supports the rest of the upholstery. Webbing is also used on the arms and back to reinforce padding and stuffing.
Black & White English Webbing is one of, if not, the strongest upholstery webbing and is traditionally used to support double cone springs. This webbing is especially recommended for seating due to it’s strength, which comes from the cotton herringbone weave.
Jute Webbing is the most common webbing used and is made of a strong fibre grown in India. Jute webbing is widely used for supporting the back and arms but not recommended for use as a base under sprung seats.
Pirelli Webbing is a rubber webbing mainly found on Ercol, Parker Knoll and Cintique furniture. Pirelli makes a firm base for a seat cushion and is usually fixed with a metal clip that then slots into a groove in the frame rather than being stapled or tacked.
For un-sprung upholstered furniture, Base Hessian is applied straight over webbing to enforce this strong foundation. If springs are used, they are tied down on top of the webbing before hessian is applied. Similar to webbing, there are various types of hessian. Mainly differing in weight for use on specific parts of the frame or when layered over springs.
Process 3:
Springs used in upholstered furniture, not only give additional comfort and strength but also help return seats, backs and arms to their original shape. Various types and sizes of springs are used for different purposes.
There are four main types of springs; Double-Cone Springs, Tension Springs, Serpentine (or also commonly known as Zigzag Springs) and Mesh Top Spring Units.
Double-Cone Springs form part of a piece of furniture’s foundation and are usually placed in-between webbing and base hessian. Depending on their size and gauge they can be used for seats and backs with the smallest and thinnest being generally used to support arm pads. It is vital these springs are applied in the correct way so that they do not buckle. The springs are secured to webbing, to each other with lashing, to the frame, and then covered in a layer of hessian. This technique keeps the springs in the best position allowing them to absorb and distribute weight evenly.
Tension Springs & Zigzag Springs are mainly used in the upholstery of more modern pieces of furniture. These springs also come in different gauges and sizes depending on their use and are usually secured to the frame with hooks rather than the more intricate techniques used with Double-Cone Springs.
Mesh Top Spring Units have become more popular with the arrival of mass-produced and pre-fabricated furniture. Spring units are composed of single-cone springs riveted on to a base of thin steel laths. These are then held in an upright position by a wire mesh with a heavier wire around the edge. This is all then covered with a layer of hessian.
Process 4:
Techniques applied in stuffing & padding upholstered furniture are largely determined by the style but also by the kinds of materials used. Depending on how upholsterers are trained, they will generally favour certain types of materials. There are many different types of materials used in the stuffing & padding process, each with their own role to play
There are several types of webbing, all of which are suitable for different applications. Three of the most common include Black & White English, Jute and Pirelli webbing.
Once the upholstery foundation (of webbing, base hessian and possibly springs) has been attached to the frame, the first layer of stuffing is put down. Horsehair would traditionally be used for this but is now difficult and more expensive to obtain. A fibrous fire-retardant substitute or foam is now used as a modern equivalent.
Hair or fibrous stuffing is secured by bridle ties, which are stitched into the base hessian and looped to hold the fibres in place. Another layer of hessian is then applied over the stuffing.
Any stuffing that is more substantial than a thin pincushion pad will need to be supported. Along the edges of the second layer of hessian, rows of stitches are used to keep the edges firm, which improves durability and helps define the contours of the furniture. This technique is called ‘Stitched Edges’ and can be applied to seats, arms and backs.
Around the 1970’s more modern upholstery techniques of using foam started to replace the traditional first layer of horsehair and fibre stuffing. No stitching techniques are required when using foam as the foams edges are already well supported.
There are many various densities of foam, each used for different purposes. The denser and hardwearing foams are mainly used on the seats as an initial layer of padding. The less dense and softer foams are used more for secondary layers and on the arms and backs.
Cotton Felt and Wadding are other materials used as second and third layers of padding on seats, arms and backs. These layers can give an extra comfort and final shaping under the top-cover.
Process 5:
Deep buttoning is a very time consuming process that requires the patience and skill of an experienced upholsterer. Once the technique is mastered, the creativity of the upholsterer is what really makes the furniture stand out.
Deep buttoning is an exaggerated version of buttoning. This technique consists of buttons being compressed at regular intervals through a deep filled upholstery pad, and then stitched under tension at the back. A pattern of deep stuffed, padded pockets is then formed, often in a diamond configuration.
Buttoning was a further development of Tufting, which came about in the 18th century. Tufting, unlike buttoning, is stitched onto the surface rather than being cut into the pad. Tufts are traditionally made of short strands of silk, linen or wool but cotton embroidery is now the modern equivalent.
Many believe these methods were developed as a way of fixing stuffing within the upholstery pad. However, contrary to this popular opinion, buttoning is purely a way of styling features that excelled to satisfy the then Victorian tastes of opulent and voluptuous upholstery.
Any style of furniture can accommodate deep buttoning providing its frame allows for an upholstery pad with enough depth. Buttoning is generally found on the inside backs of furniture but can be used on seats, arms, padded borders and rails. Traditional Chesterfields are a great example of this deep buttoning effect.
Great care and attention is needed in the planning stages of deep buttoning, particularly when using floral, tartan or any intricate styled fabric. It is very important to get the fabric in the right position in relation to the buttons, folds and seat fabric. Any pattern mismatches will be intensified by this technique, which is why plain fabrics are a far better choice.
Process 6:
Applying the top cover makes all the hard work worthwhile. To see a piece of furniture take shape and come to life gives the upholsterer tremendous satisfaction. However, just as the icing on a cake can hide any imperfections, on upholstery applying the top cover can reveal them, which is why so much effort and attention to detail is applied in the earlier stages.
What really makes furniture come alive is the choice of fabric and finishes.
There are many finishes and trimmings available, to enhance the top cover and final look of the furniture but they are also widely used to hide tack lines and stitching. Finishings come in all manor of colours, textures and designs. The more common types include; piping, braid, cord, studs, gimp and valances (pleated, tasselled & skirted).
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